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Have you priced the inspection certification license and insurance costs yet ?:I
We have to pay the sales taxes when you obtain the plate, not sure how that works for you. … you might not want to make it too nice before they see it ;)


… bet you could make it into one heck of a sweet Dirt bike for only the cost of your annual insurance, plates and the initial vehicle certification requirements.
 

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BTW now you have the swingarm off, now is a good time to test your shocks, you'll have to remove the springs to see if the shocks have any shock left.

… swingarm bushings are better made or bought in Brass instead of plastic like the original ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
If you're going for an original restore you can save a whole bunch of coin, there was no powder coat on them and there was precious little paint :|

Recommend putting your money into things like nice levers and bars if the old steel ones are bent in the least.

… do you still think this thing can be worth 3 or 4 grand when it's done, because that Beta cost 4 grand new, so you've got some pretty heavy competition there :|




& Please Don't say the tires look like they have plenty of tread on them so might not need replacing.
Actually the tires have plenty of tread left on them but so many cracks that if I inflated them they might explode. Plus I have 2 new tires and a top end piston kit that the PO included in the sale. Your correct about the paint as I trial removed some with stripper and it released fairly well......WAY better than if it was powder coated.

I just did a cursory glance at prices for replacement items and found those rinky dink little items command the most money.......like the air filter, ignition switch, fork dust boots, etc. Those 3 probably costing right at around $250.
 

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Actually the tires have plenty of tread left on them but so many cracks that if I inflated them they might explode. Plus I have 2 new tires and a top end piston kit that the PO included in the sale. Your correct about the paint as I trial removed some with stripper and it released fairly well......WAY better than if it was powder coated.

I just did a cursory glance at prices for replacement items and found those rinky dink little items command the most money.......like the air filter, ignition switch, fork dust boots, etc. Those 3 probably costing right at around $250.
OMG don't pay that kind of money for cheap old parts !
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I can do paint which includes etching primer, epoxy primer and base........I have enough ppg clear left to do entire bike but it will still be around $300 for product.
 

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Ignition switch: that is something that is immediately removed from almost every Competition motorcycle in existence :| A used one comes on the market, every time a motorcycle dies.

Old tires are dangerous slippery on pavement or dirt, the rubber dries out and bye-bye traction. Your old tires still have tread because the rubber was as hard as a rock after year two.

Fort gaiters are about 20$ a pair and far from critical accessories on a bike that hasn't been restored yet, they protect the fork stanchions, but yours are presently pitted with rust that would rip your fork seals to shreds.

Basically everything that is rubber on your bike most likely needs to be replaced.
There is a lot of rubber bits on a little bike :| Fork seals, engine seals, bottom end seals, wheel bearing seals, gas line, vent lines, spark plug wire and cap, foot peg and kickstart rubbers, shock mounts ….
 

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I'd buy the new spokes if that meant I was lacing on a taller front rim. Otherwise, why are you replacing them ?:I
… it will prove very cost ineffective to replace parts at age inflated OEM parts prices, just because it has surface rust.
 

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I can do paint which includes etching primer, epoxy primer and base........I have enough ppg clear left to do entire bike but it will still be around $300 for product.
Why would you use a base/clear system on this if you're doing a restoration? Do a single stage black and get on with life...
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Why would you use a base/clear system on this if you're doing a restoration? Do a single stage black and get on with life...

Because of 3 reasons. 1) because I want to. 2) because I have found base clear are more resistant to blemishes cause by gas, solvents, nicks, etc.....and 1 good coat after base gives the appearance of a single stage system and 3) I nearly have a half gallon of PPG 2021 with activator.....which saves me $.

The silver painted parts appear to be a satin silver. It appears an almost exact match to Eastwood Argent Rally Wheel paint. That specific coating is an acrylic lacquer. An epoxy primer would be an ideal coating prior to t he Argent being sprayed. Just thoughts
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I'd buy the new spokes if that meant I was lacing on a taller front rim. Otherwise, why are you replacing them ?:I
… it will prove very cost ineffective to replace parts at age inflated OEM parts prices, just because it has surface rust.
I like your attention to detail. The front rim is dented and bent and the spokes on a certain section are bent. Since I already have the tires what I want for the wheels is a new rim for the front, all new bearings, the new tires supplied with the bike and new spokes..... a buddy will be doing that for me as I am not that patient.

He put new spokes and tires on my 93 DR650, lace them proper......and that was without a doubt the single greatest ride improvement on the street ever for that DR. He
 

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I had high hopes but man this sounds like a bad idea waiting to happen. No one is going to change your mind but I can tell you if you don't have the disposable income to just throw money at this stop pretending it will be worth it to make as nice as you want it. I can tell you from buying parts for mine it is not cheap and all of the little rubber items, cables, brakes, bearings and seals will put you near the top of your budget.

I can guarantee spending all of that money instead on gas/oil and riding it slightly uglier will be more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I had high hopes but man this sounds like a bad idea waiting to happen. No one is going to change your mind but I can tell you if you don't have the disposable income to just throw money at this stop pretending it will be worth it to make as nice as you want it. I can tell you from buying parts for mine it is not cheap and all of the little rubber items, cables, brakes, bearings and seals will put you near the top of your budget.
You know I think I am starting to change my mind. Your correct about all the little items running a fortune....I kinda figured that out (I think I already knew deep down).

I just want to add that I am doing this for me. Not to flip, or for any increased value..........just a small pit bike to reminisce. I'm still in the process of disassembling it but I might turn this into the "patina keep".
 

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I think thats a great idea. I didn't intend to bash you but I know the diesure to make it pretty and unfortunately it isn't worth it a lot of times.

You can have a very nice looking bike for considerably less and although it may be more prone to scratch etc you won't care because you'll be enjoying riding it so much.

I'd look around for a decent front wheel on ebay etc, may find another one in decent shape for less than the spokes would cost you. Rebuild the engine, gaskets are cheap, new bearings can be sourced cheap and then slap some decent cheap paint on it new rubber and ride. Should get off pretty cheaply.

You may decide later on that you do in fact want to restore it but there is sound reasoning behind getting it running and riding first.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I think thats a great idea. I didn't intend to bash you but I know the diesure to make it pretty and unfortunately it isn't worth it a lot of times.

You can have a very nice looking bike for considerably less and although it may be more prone to scratch etc you won't care because you'll be enjoying riding it so much.

I'd look around for a decent front wheel on ebay etc, may find another one in decent shape for less than the spokes would cost you. Rebuild the engine, gaskets are cheap, new bearings can be sourced cheap and then slap some decent cheap paint on it new rubber and ride. Should get off pretty cheaply.

You may decide later on that you do in fact want to restore it but there is sound reasoning behind getting it running and riding first.
I have to concur. I will keep all posted on the progress of my "patina keep".
 

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Discussion Starter #56
20150211_161818.jpg

Some disassembling done today. A few items I noticed:

1) The front brake cable will need to be replaced
2) rear shocks will need to be replaced.......pitting beyond usable in my opinion plus little dampening when riding.
3) a lot of rubber mounts are fine
4) wiring harness ohms out and is usable

I think I will leave it in this state until parts that were ordered arrived and am ready for final disassembly. It's nice to have it in rolling condition.

I might purchase the Caswell zinc plating kit.....just to use and learn on. Since this will be not a full all point restoration I can get away with zinc plating not perfect. This will be a valuable learning experience for future projects.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
The awsome heart of my patina keep.........90 cubic centimeters of 2 smoke power.

20150218_163114.jpg

20150218_163238.jpg

20150218_163420.jpg

Suprisingly clean inside with no scaring and the normal carbon. Just a very little looseness in the rotating...........one of the cleaner ones I've opened.

It came with a piston kit but I don't know if I want to install..........maybe.

I haven't opened the clutch yet. When riding it was a little funny but probably from engaging components.

I have this nearly uncontrollable urge to do stuff to this motor and intake. T he only thing stopping me is the fact that it ran fairly well when I rode it that maybe I should just accept the fact it's a 90 and enjoy it for what it is. But you know.........we all have the illness.
 

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I wouldn't fit the kit.

If you can get OEM rings, get a set. The barrel would only need a very light hone, even one carefully done by hand.

Unless you are a big heavy guy, and have a spare head, I can't see why machining off 20 thou" off the head, to increase performance would hurt any. You would still need to check if the piston hits the head.

It's not rocket science - It's not a rocket :)

Danger, is my business."
 

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Maybe it's just the picture but it sure looks like a lot of scaring on that piston to me. You've got a replacement piston,what are you saving it for? The next rebuild?

What do you want to do to the intake?
 

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Maybe it's just the picture but it sure looks like a lot of scaring on that piston to me. You've got a replacement piston,what are you saving it for? The next rebuild?

What do you want to do to the intake?
It's hard to tell in photos. It just looks like normal wear and oil/carbon build up to me.

If it ran well, don't mess with it.

Danger, is my business."
 
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