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A good base bike, modified to work a bit better than stock. There are isolated tribes in The Amazon who thought it was impossible on this forum.

Good bike, good effort, I'd ride it.

I've used VHT black M/C case paint on brake calis with zero problems, but then I bake VHT in an old oven.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
It's been a while since I did anything for this bike. I've been travelling ...and will be for some time....so the limited time I have home is usually spent on the R6, or the dirt bike. Anyway, the last time I had the GS out I noticed a slight weeping of shock oil, so I figured, I'll just get some seals and re-do the build on them. The first time was more of a learning experience, and just to see if they could be made to work. They could, but I can do a better job, this time.....

First of all, my first version of a spring compressor was ....a little....well, Mickey Mouse:
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This time I tried a little more finesse.

I had some Piston holders for assembling a four cylinder top end, and modified one of them:
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I got some turnbuckles, a bolt and some nuts....and tried that:
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That worked, but the hex on the turnbuckle came in contact with the spring as I turned them, so I modified the assembly by using some large eye bolts. And that worked much better:
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Next, I took crazyPJ's advice and had bleed holes machined into the top bosses of the shock bodies. They are drilled and tapped for a 1/4-20 button head screw with a counter bore for an o-ring. This allows you to get ALL the air out of the shock. This is particularly useful if using the original seals, because they are very tall and you cannot get the air trapped in the seal out when you install them (this became less of an issue, for me as I will discuss momentarily):
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The original seals are 12.5mm (ID) x 32mm (OD) x 15mm (H). I could not find these seals ANYWHERE! I found a distributor in China that sells them, but had no way to sell them to me.
I did find some 12 mm x 32 mm x 7 mm from SKF, and figured I'll stack them and see if that works. The ID is .5 mm smaller, but it doesn't seem like it binds, at all:
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The two stacked seals are only 1 mm shorter than the original seal, and theoretically will provide twice the sealing around the shaft. I did put some grease between the two seals to keep the outer one lubricated. I am not recommending anyone take this approach....yet. Once I put some miles on them, I will report back on how the seals perform. Of course, at this point in the season, I may not get a chance to do that until spring. But I will report my findings, good or bad.

Ready for a Nitrogen charge and installation.
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Note added: This time I took the assembled shocks to the local suspension guru, Jon Tyus at CTR Suspensions, to get charged with N2. Much more precise than the tire shop.
 

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If you haven't linished the shaft, the new seals won't have anything to ' bite ' onto and form a good seal. Time will tell, you may get away with it. Seals don't like polished shaft chrome much.

Danger, is my business.
 

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If you haven't linished the shaft, the new seals won't have anything to ' bite ' onto and form a good seal. Time will tell, you may get away with it. Seals don't like polished shaft chrome much.

Danger, is my business.
Why does this sound like bullshit to me. I am pretty sure that a rubber seal would like to have the smoothest surface possible to run against.
 

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Why does this sound like bullshit to me. I am pretty sure that a rubber seal would like to have the smoothest surface possible to run against.
Well, having rebuild or rechromed hundreds of shock shafts and fitted them rebuild shocks with new seals, I guess I know what I'm talking about.
Some standard forks also get the chrome polished, by normal wear, so ' shiny ' that the seals don't lap in, or ' bite ' enough to form a good seal.

They are rarely rubber shock seals, they are usually a synthetic rubber or polyurethane.

Shock shafts or fork legs only need to be linished with very worn-out ' wet and dry paper ' and some kerosene in a lathe or drill press at fairly low revs, with a very slight cross-hatching. You only have to remove the ' mirror ' finish, so it looks little like fine brushed stainless steel. -that's the best description I can come up with in words.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Well, having rebuild or rechromed hundreds of shock shafts and fitted them rebuild shocks with new seals, I guess I know what I'm talking about.
You gotta stop this bullshit stuff - really, no one on this forum believes you have actual hands on experience with anything mechanical.
 

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You gotta stop this bullshit stuff - really, no one on this forum believes you have actual hands on experience with anything mechanical.
The last time you worked as a professional M/C suspension and chassis guy was when exactly hillsy? :ME.

You really need more racing stickers on your forklift.

Danger, is my business.
 

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The last time you worked as a professional M/C suspension and chassis guy was when exactly hillsy? :ME.
See, this is the point. I never said I was a professional M/C suspension guru....but you have.....and you can't back it up.....or anything else you claim to be.

You must have made pretty good coffee for the real mechanics to let you hang aroung long enough to ween snippets of information off them.
 

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See, this is the point. I never said I was a professional M/C suspension guru....but you have.....and you can't back it up.....or anything else you claim to be.

You must have made pretty good coffee for the real mechanics to let you hang aroung long enough to ween snippets of information off them.
Well I guess that strategy has worked for you. Ha.

For me: very black, very strong and very hot, thank's hillsy.

Danger, is my business.
 

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well, I decided to search the googles to find out how much BS there is in the concept of getting seals to work on shock absorber shafts. The answer appears to be that the finest finish recommended in industry specs is ra 9. A mirror finish is ra 5. An ra 9 roughness is about that created by 400 grit . So, it would appear that a shock shaft should not be a mirror finish and witworth is right.
 

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well, I decided to search the googles to find out how much BS there is in the concept of getting seals to work on shock absorber shafts. The answer appears to be that the finest finish recommended in industry specs is ra 9. A mirror finish is ra 5. An ra 9 roughness is about that created by 400 grit . So, it would appear that a shock shaft should not be a mirror finish and witworth is right.
Funny that. Maybe I learnt something as a motorcycle fork and shock pro for a few years.

It was a licence to print money, and I think I had one shock fail, and one pair of fork seals come out of some USD units. Out of hundreds, I think that's a good record.

From memory, I used worn-out 1200 grit wet and dry paper, with kerosene as a lube to hone shocker shafts.

One advantage of a micro-fine chrome surface honing is, it will retain a tiny amount of shock oil and lube the shaft's seal better.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Being right doesn't seem to make you any less of a dick. Your expertise is also, still suspect. As noted, I simply checked the interwebs and was able to confirm that you may be an interwebs expert, too. The only evidence we have of your experience rebuilding suspension is based only on your word and we know how much credibility that has here.
 

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Being right doesn't seem to make you any less of a dick. Your expertise is also, still suspect. As noted, I simply checked the interwebs and was able to confirm that you may be an interwebs expert, too. The only evidence we have of your experience rebuilding suspension is based only on your word and we know how much credibility that has here.
Don't worry. I've spent many years, making people eat humble pie, beating the odds, making fools of people who doubt my credibility and generally making people eat their words. Years before the internet, I relied on my encyclopedic memory entirely back then, and mostly I do that even today, in the present as well. The internet only provides data, not wisdom.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Don't worry. I've spent many years, making people eat humble pie, beating the odds, making fools of people who doubt my credibility and generally making people eat their words. Years before the internet, I relied on my encyclopedic memory entirely back then, and mostly I do that even today, in the present as well. The internet only provides data, not wisdom.

Danger, is my business.

 

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When ' who the comedian ' walks on Planet Comedy, let me know.

I guess if the lower incarnations of humanity, like Joan Molinsky are allowed an entry visa, they let anyone land. Cue the star wars cantina theme, played backwards.

It's ironic a ' desperate to book the next standup gig ' comedian is criticizing people who have an ego, or real life experiences. It's basically a convoluted envy, moulded into spite.

Pushing the ' me - me - me ' to the max is what pays for this guy's next two star motel room. Ironic, it is.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Don't worry. I've spent many years, making people eat humble pie, beating the odds, making fools of people who doubt my credibility and generally making people eat their words. Years before the internet, I relied on my encyclopedic memory entirely back then, and mostly I do that even today, in the present as well. The internet only provides data, not wisdom.

Danger, is my business.
Based on some of your previous posts.......This is coming from the suspension guru who claims that plastic CBX swing arm bushings never wear out. Some poor slob would wobble into your "shop" on a CBX and then based on your infinite wisdom, you would sell him a fork brace and send him on his way.
 
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