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Discussion starter · #61 · (Edited)
Thanks Jalsteve.
If I was over that side, I'd buy you breakfast for that one.... and thanks for the link to the museum as I wasn't aware of it... and it looks priceless. I haven't measured anything in this box yet, as I'm still cleaning and sorting, but so far I'm amazed at how good everything looks. I've been procrastinating about truing the chuck jaws, so time to pull my thumb out. +1 on the sleeve gear bearing leak, it's been a while since I've seen that much crud. It'll probably be considerably lighter when it come out of the dishwasher.
Would Russel Motors have the roller bearing conversion or is it all off the shelf stuff? Actually a more important question is how are things going with this Manx?
I buy from RGM Norton, these guys sell to the public but often they are trade prices for a lot of stuff.

Bearings & Bushes
Gaskets, Seals & O-Rings

Been busy on other stuff so the Manx which is the subject of this thread has had to wait. The VOC have recently featured this Egli (EV7) in their club magazine.

 
Thanks, I'll order up some bits and gaskets.

I wish my "other stuff" was as interesting, although I am knee deep in one of those timing chests at the moment. Not sure the term "interesting" fits. New spindles, cams, followers, idler, etc, but mostly I'm doing stuff like repairing a baby monitor, washing machine and keeping the bride happy. Actually the other day I noticed my Norton cases starting to grow a bit of that dreaded white fuzz. There in an area where it's dry and the temp doesn't fluctuate, so was a bit surprised. I just basted them with oil and bagged them. Haven't found anyone local who will do the chromate. Not sure there is anyone left who will do it. There is a local company who uses something less carcinogenic, but they don't do magnesium. I also wonder what some of the alternatives will do in the way of a colour change.

 
Discussion starter · #63 · (Edited)
Thanks, I'll order up some bits and gaskets.

I wish my "other stuff" was as interesting, although I am knee deep in one of those timing chests at the moment. Not sure the term "interesting" fits. New spindles, cams, followers, idler, etc, but mostly I'm doing stuff like repairing a baby monitor, washing machine and keeping the bride happy. Actually the other day I noticed my Norton cases starting to grow a bit of that dreaded white fuzz. There in an area where it's dry and the temp doesn't fluctuate, so was a bit surprised. I just basted them with oil and bagged them. Haven't found anyone local who will do the chromate. Not sure there is anyone left who will do it. There is a local company who uses something less carcinogenic, but they don't do magnesium. I also wonder what some of the alternatives will do in the way of a colour change.

View attachment 38505
Try searching for Dow7 coating which is the modern equivalent of black chromate. Still nasty stuff though. However new chromate is a last resort as the prep is quite savage, degrease and then aggressive shot blasting to removed the crap and open up any pores, the result can look quite rough and you may not be pleased.

The alternative is any water displacing oil like wd40 which dries after application. Give the cases a good spray and let dry then buff, then spray again, let dry and buff. Just do them regularly or warn them through for 24hours then wrap in cling film till needed.

The Egli is a real find, its EV7 and the 1st kit Egli delivered in 68 and the 1st Egli to ever win a race. Another customer bike I wish was mine.
 
Thanks again. Had a quick look for Dow7 and it makes me think I should wander over to the airport. There are several companies in the repair business, so maybe someone there that can apply it for me.
Initially I did consider cracking open one of the last remaining jugs of R40 and just using that. If nothing else it would smell nice.
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Thanks again. Had a quick look for Dow7 and it makes me think I should wander over to the airport. There are several companies in the repair business, so maybe someone there that can apply it for me.
Initially I did consider cracking open one of the last remaining jugs of R40 and just using that. If nothing else it would smell nice.
"R" absorbs water so do go that route. I think you'll find either of the two anti corrosion products above will work fine. As I said I would avoid new chromate unless corrosion is bad, and your cases don't look too bad at all. Incidentally only the magnesium engine parts were treated the hubs were not and just stoved enamelled black.
 
While those pipes look like a work of art, I'm not sure I like them on that bike.... but WTF do I know. Probably showing my ignorance of the art world again. After staring at them and listening to them for a while, they would probably grow on me. Speaking of art and Fritz.....This recently arrived from the engineer who helped design that bike. Actually considering getting a couple of frame worthy photographs of it before it's buried in the bowels of the cases.. hopefully to never be seen again.

 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
While those pipes look like a work of art, I'm not sure I like them on that bike.... but WTF do I know. Probably showing my ignorance of the art world again. After staring at them and listening to them for a while, they would probably grow on me. Speaking of art and Fritz.....This recently arrived from the engineer who helped design that bike. Actually considering getting a couple of frame worthy photographs of it before it's buried in the bowels of the cases.. hopefully to never be seen again.

View attachment 38841
Pipes are compromise, he wanted 2 into 2, organic shaped with reasonable silencing. So that's what he got. Silencers are made flat and blown fitted with a stainless absorption baffle. The sound nice and throaty.

You racing that Vincent? If there a weight saving with the new crank? Argo Engineering rods? Terry Prince crank? Vincent mains always look a bit whimpy.
 
Pipes are compromise, he wanted 2 into 2, organic shaped with reasonable silencing. So that's what he got. Silencers are made flat and blown fitted with a stainless absorption baffle. The sound nice and throaty.

You racing that Vincent? If there a weight saving with the new crank? Argo Engineering rods? Terry Prince crank? Vincent mains always look a bit whimpy.
Always wanted to have a go at making some megaphones using that method, but it's probably best that I focus on the here and now.
It's one of Terry"s cranks and unfortunately it is going into something at the totally opposite end of the spectrum. A touring version.... steel fenders and all. The original crank was just on the wrong side of borderline. The radial play on the rods was within spec, but axial was more than it should be. There isn't anyone left around here that I would trust to redo it and I'm paranoid (for good reason) about shipping it off. The decision to replace it might seem odd without a page or two of rambling to explain my so called "rational" and you would probably still think I'm half a bubble off plumb......bottom line is, I just said fuck it. I have since acquired a press and most of the bits to fix the original, so we'll see how that goes. Just in the process of checking the new one to see if it requires any shims to get the rods centred in the bores. You are correct about the mains looking wimpy... probably because they are.. at least the drive side anyway. I went with the stock dimensions because it will be living a very mundane life, although the compression will be bumped a bit and it's getting a little more camshaft.
 
Discussion starter · #71 · (Edited)
"although the compression will be bumped a bit and it's getting a little more camshaft.[/QUOTE]

Put Matchless G50 Pistons in it. Standard valves and big duration cams. 100mph and 3500rpm.
 
I hear you... Valves are staying stock, maybe clean up the ports a little bit, make sure the lower guide has clearance for the lift but thinking I will get pistons from Terry.
These are going to be used elsewhere if I can stay focused.

 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
I hear you... Valves are staying stock, maybe clean up the ports a little bit, make sure the lower guide has clearance for the lift but thinking I will get pistons from Terry.
These are going to be used elsewhere if I can stay focused.

View attachment 38986

2 ring pistons probably not ideal on a lower engine speed lump and certainly not ideal for a bike expected to pile on the miles.

Pistons look like Asso from years ago.
 
Although they look like them, they aren't Italian, actually made by Hepworth and Grandage and I'm guessing. from the dark ages.. I've never seen another pair the same. The top ring is ***** and the oil ring is cast with ends that overlap. They will go into something that will only be used for short blasts. I agree... I can't imagine them being happy on the road for any length of time. (although truth be told, I can only tolerate short blasts and a day in the sadle might cause me to seize up) It would likely be pointless trying to look for replacement original rings, so would have to match something up when and if the time comes.
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Although they look like them, they aren't Italian, actually made by Hepworth and Grandage and I'm guessing. from the dark ages.. I've never seen another pair the same. The top ring is ***** and the oil ring is cast with ends that overlap. They will go into something that will only be used for short blasts. I agree... I can't imagine them being happy on the road for any length of time. (although truth be told, I can only tolerate short blasts and a day in the sadle might cause me to seize up) It would likely be pointless trying to look for replacement original rings, so would have to match something up when and if the time comes.
Two ring Pistons (for those that don't know): good points are that the removal of one compression ring allows the piston to be made shorter, the pin can be positioned further toward the crown and the whole assembly is lighter therefore reducing mass. Bad point is that if the single top compression ring begins to fail then combustion heat passes the ring and heats the piston skirt followed by engine failure.

Regular maintenance required therefore and close inspection, easy on a Manx not quite so on a multi cylinder bike.
 
When parted from the piston the crank must be dismantled and sorted, the bearing feels ok but it has to be checked and cleaned, I have no doubt it will be full of crap, the flywheels need to be cleaned and shot peened (and I might re polish). Crank flywheel pins mic up OK. And the mains are good. The drive side main is a works type and unobtainable, these are broader than the standard Manx drive side main.
Good day. Just re.reading this thread, because I need a proper fix. I wonder if these folks could help you out with that bearing... assuming you want to go that route.

McIntosh Racing Developments - Catalogue
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
Good day. Just re.reading this thread, because I need a proper fix. I wonder if these folks could help you out with that bearing... assuming you want to go that route.

McIntosh Racing Developments - Catalogue
All the bottom end is now sorted and waiting for assembly.

I use Macintosh cycle parts all the time. Their short stroke engine parts I think are Summerfield who are about 100miles from here.
 
All the bottom end is now sorted and waiting for assembly.

I use Macintosh cycle parts all the time. Their short stroke engine parts I think are Summerfield who are about 100miles from here.
Speaking of assembling bottom ends.... Your main bearing retainers are a newer version than what I have. Mine are a MS stamping that is held in place by 4 screws. The normal practice is to solder over the heads of the screws to keep them from backing out. That seems like a PITA, because I suck at soldering anything other than wiring. You have to tin the heads of the screws and the corners of the retaining plate, assemble, then preferably preheat the assembled case half in the oven and solder away. Which brings me to the question.... have you ever had the pleasure of performing this task? I don't understand, given all of the options offered by Loctite, why I wouldn't just use an appropriate product from them instead of soldering. What would you do?
 
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