Impact screwdriver. The kind you hit with a hammer.

 

And for the rounded off one - vise grips and heat. Or weld an oversized nut onto it wrench away.

 

quote:Originally posted by hillsy

And for the rounded off one - vise grips and heat. Or weld an oversized nut onto it wrench away.

Or find the next size smaller socket that will almost fit. Heat the rounded off one until it's cherry red. Drive the smaller socket on. Allow to cool a bit before cranking on it.

Use a six-point socket.

Use a socket that heat discoloration and/or a nut permanently stuck in won't hurt your feelings.

 

Update: I stayed up until 6 AM and waited for home depot to open, and i went and bought a husky impact screwdriver. Came back and gave it a whack. Nothin... I tried heating the screw to the brink of hell then the impact screwdriver...nothin...

Feeling pretty disheartened right now. I'm sure you've all felt that at some point. Come with the experience i suppose. I just feel nervous about drilling out screw holes im going to have to use again.

 

Just cut the nuts off.
Various methods from cold chisel to #0 welding tip and burn them off

 

Sometimes these can be little buggers to get off. You can try some penetrating oil and try the impact again.

There is a little technique in using the impact driver. First you must make sure you are square on the screw and the bit fits correctly. I then load up the impact by twisting the impact to the left so the slack is taken out of the impact driver. Then I use my one-lb short handle sluggo and give a sharp rap on the end of the impact driver while firmly holding the driver loaded up (as explained above). This works for about 90% of the hard to remove screws. If I'm having a little issue - I use penetrating oil and or heat to help loosen it up.

If the engine is still in the frame - you may not be getting square on the screw - I have one like that in my shop right now. Since I'm going to remove the engine soon - I'm waiting till the engine is out of the bike before I give it another go.

As a side note: Once you remove the exhaust screws, some folks will replace them with studs and bolt their exhaust on with bolts. I know that doesn't help you at the moment but that's what you can do later.

Don't get disheartened - it will come off. Last resort is to drill the head of the screw off - then you can use visegrips to remove the stud end of the screw. I only will drill the sucker out if the screw head gets too mangled to use the impact driver on it.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I woke up and took a few more whacks. Still nothin. Here;s what im looking at. I can't really grab these screws, because they sit flush on the exhaust.

Time to rent my buddies drill it seems.

 

If your trying to remove the exhaust pipe - you don't need to remove the head exhaust part that's shown on your picture. Have a buddy hold the back of the pipe up a little and pull the pipe off. A locking collar is used to clamp the pipe onto the head exhaust part. If you look at this picture, you may note the exhaust pipe is slightly cocked onto the head exhaust part. I am assuming your trying to get the exhaust pipe off the head - there is no other reason to remove the head exhaust part....

 

Here is my advice, run the engine if you are able, get it to operation temp, then start wacking away, hopefully that does the trick, I know adding heat (torch) sometimes doesn't heat up the correct things. I've never seen a actual screw setup like that before.

 

The impact screwdriver should get that right off, especially if you can get a bit to fit in there well. Make sure you're twisting the handle in the direction you want the screw to turn before whacking it with the hammer.

 

AND FOLKING HIT THE BITCH!!!

 

several methods can be used depending on size,material and access, heating,freezing, drilling,welding...but here is a good suggestion;if you work on bikes/cars/aircraft alot you should have one of these nut busters.
remember if you do have to strike part to shock threads make sure you have a solid back up or you can just create more damage by breaking parts...
joe@ vcycle
www.joesvcycle.com

 

Worst case scenario - drill off the heads of the screws, remove the exhaust / collets, slip an oversized nut over the remaining stud, weld it to the stud (from inside the nut), put on a socket and unscrew it.

The welding should heat up the stud enough to loosen it and the nut will give you something better to wrench on.

And Joe - that nut buster looks interesting, but since I'm married I've already got one

 

What bike is that?
I don't recognise the fittings
Use a 4lb or 5lb hammer, you need something to 'push' the impact driver into the screw head as well as turn it.
Most screws get chewed up because hammer is too small and bit bounces out

 

pretzel guy ,with this much trouble geting them loose it would pay to have an expert loosen them for you as it could be quite expensive if you break the head! looking at the screws it should be fairly easy to get them out if you have the correct tools and experience but that is where an experienced mechanic makes his money. sometimes it is better to pay some one as in the long run it may cost your more time,money and aggrevation. the other piece of advice that is being thrown around may be a issue too as they assume you know what you are doing as it works for them, get a big hammer and swing away- sounds ok but in actuality if you do not have the experience on where to stop and how to use it properly you can break things! rivet gun set up is like a remote controller for the t.v. once you have it you will not be able to do without it. hillsy- these are loud - is yours? ha
joe@ vcycle

 

quote:Originally posted by joe1028

pretzel guy ,with this much trouble getting them loose it would pay to have an expert loosen them for you as it could be quite expensive if you break the head! looking at the screws it should be fairly easy to get them out if you have the correct tools and experience but that is where an experienced mechanic makes his money. sometimes it is better to pay some one as in the long run it may cost your more time,money and aggravation. the other piece of advice that is being thrown around may be a issue too as they assume you know what you are doing as it works for them, get a big hammer and swing away- sounds ok but in actuality if you do not have the experience on where to stop and how to use it properly you can break things!
joe@ vcycle

Well put Joe
A cheaper way to do it is get a GOOD #3 Phillips 'pound through' screwdriver (blade goes all the way through handle)
They almost always have a hex on shank for a box end wrench.
You put minimal turning pressure on screw and tap on the end.
With flat head screws you will have to use release oil as the taper gives increased surface area.

 

I must be missing something here - you don't need to remove the exhaust headers screws to remove the exhaust pipes. I know the exhaust pipes can be sometimes little cranky to getting off but the exhaust can be removed by working them side-to-side or up-and-down a little. They should slide right off...

 

got kind of quiet here once bob made us all look stupid...ha ha
think the only reason they need to come off is to replace leaky gaskets or remove the engine,unless these are some aftermarket one piece items.....

 

from the pic, it looks like someone lost the studs and used these screws instead....poor choice. if that was the fix, who knows if the threads really matched or how much loctite was used? but yeah, i don't think you're gonna get the headers to "slide right off" now that the studs are gone.

 

Thanks Joe - Just another case of someone not seeing the tree due to the forest...

 

joe, i read your post about 5 minutes after i did exactly what you suggested. lol. the pipes are off, and now the engine is too. time to see what the damage is.

 

thank bob he was the only one who did not follow you off the cliff.....
good luck
joe

 

If you use an impact driver first choose the correct size bit and tap it into the scew head on its own so it is good and tight in there. Then add the head of the impact driver and if it helps insert a socket extension between the head and the main body of the driver.Usually half inch drive. This gives good control in awkward places and allows you to get it lined up at perfect rightangles if you see what I mean. Load up the driver turning it the way you want to go and give t a solid thump with a club hammer. I have done lots of screws in this way it rarely fails.
Its all in the wrist action as they say so good luck.

 

Another zombie thread raised from the dead.....

 

This looks like the stock early CB750 flange screws to me. If so, the pipe will truly slide off the flange like he said. The best way to get these screws off is to use an impact hammer driver but you might have the best luck if you remove the front wheel to give you room to swing then put an extension between the bit holder and the driver to get it clear of the pipe and also give you a straight shot at it. You might use a large punch with the tip as big as the screw head and smack the screw ( HARD!) to shock it first and work the WD-40 into the threads. The impact driver needs to be exactly in line with the screw, then give it a good whack. It takes a good sharp whack to get them to budge!