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View attachment 33594

Got a tank and a seat.

Cut the frame
SO here is why I think this was dumb. The bike is not on it's "resting" weight, so you don't know where it stands and sits. Weight position on a motorcycle is critical, otherwise riders wouldn't lean off the bikes in turns, so how do you know you placed your weight in the right place when you made your subframe? you don't. When real motorcycle engineers do this they use computer modeling software that allows them to move a virtual person around a virtual frame and study weight distribution before they even lay weld one. You could have replicated this with the bike fully assembled sitting on two chassis scales where you mount the bike and figure out where you need to sit. Instead, you have a bike on a block of wood held down by rachet straps and are basically hoping for the best.

I hope it works out for you, but there is a real chance you could end up with a rider position that feels like the rider is doing a continuous pull up to keep himself from sliding off the back of the bike even when standing still because what is level on a block of wood isn't level on acceleration squat or decel dive.

I thought at first the sub-frame added some torsional rigidity to the swingarm pivot to further prevent the arm from twisting, but then I realized it was so any forces being exerted on the arm would translate to the subframe so it doesn't feel like the bike is twisting underneath the rider. As long as that's maintained at least you'll have the right feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
20161106_164007_1478537609095_resized.jpg 20161106_163926_1478537609784_resized.jpg

Some updated pictures of frame progress.

It seems I'm getting a lot of flack for doing this. I thought this café thing was about form and function? I could have bought a thunderbird, I could have done so many things but what's the fun in that. I could have done what so many have done before, I could have built a chopper, I could have built a Honda, I could have gone out and bought a minty Triumph too. This project is about building, trying and making something different than what so many have done before.

I love the sound of the Triumph triple and all of these T300 generation bikes would make good donors, this one just happen to be available.

This build post, from my perspective, is about sharing what I am doing to perhaps give someone else an idea or get positive constructive dialog.

My ideas are different but founded in my many years of experience building projects I was often told I was crazy for trying, so I quit listening to the nay sayers.

Now onto more positive conversation.

I have cleaned off the many extra tabs off the sub frame and am currently fixing my welder to weld up the new sub frame arrangement.

I have this great sheet metal, it was free, I scored that I will be using to make the electronics tray under the leading edge of the seat and the battery box.

Im using a set of 3 micro relays and 4 weather proof fuse holders to fit with in the width of the frame rails under the seat. The idea is you cant see all of the electronics that this engine needs.

Im using a Ignitech control module for the programmable functionality and also because it is so small and will also fit under the seat.

Ive gone through the wiring diagram to eliminate a bunch of stuff I don't need or want, like the alarm sub harness and various circuits.


Im looking into gauges but have not settled on anything. Either the factory stuff from a Trophy, speed triple, sprint, Daytona which all are too large in my opinion of the universal type relatively available but not sure about compatibility with the speedo drive and the tach output for a three cylinder. I've thought of using the electrical/electronic type sending unit that was used on the later Triumphs but Not sure about the axle diameter and the width of the senor, it might make a cleaner install and open up the possibility of other speedos.

I got the race tech front springs and Emulators for the forks, Sprint front rotors and Trophy calipers. Just need the brake lines to complete the front end. Once I weld the sub frame I will start on assembling the front end and work my way back.
 

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Looking good

Sorting the fixed subframe is the big challenge on these bikes....

You know you can remove the oil cooler, the unfaired 900s don't have them. Triumph do a little pipe that bypasses all the oil cooler plumbing...
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I am thinking of running the oil cooler for the off chance I put it on the local Miller track, or ride her hard in the many local canyons, peace of mind.

I've almost got all the parts I anticipate I am going to need, still looking at muffler options. Thought of "Cone Engineering" 12" slip on mufflers and on the opposite end of the budget spectrum are the many EMGO variations of a shorty reverse cone muffler.

My strategy with this build is to get it on the road my May or June then over the next winter take her apart to paint, powder coat, and rebuild the engine. So although I like the brushed stainless of the Cone Engineering mufflers I might do EMGO for now.

Just ordered a set of Trophy 900 gauges to do instead of the Trident unit since I don't want the look of the Trident gauges and prefer the round classic look and they are compatible with the cable drive speedo and ignition control module I'm using.

Got the Galfer brake lines as well. Just need to fix the welder still.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Latest update, if anyone gives a damn.

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Fixed the welder and welded up the sub frame and cut it down to a better length, wife not too happy to not have a seat on this bike, got her talked into getting a touring bike better suited to having a passenger.

Installed the Racetech Emulators and the Racetech springs.
Installed the Trophy front Calipers and rotors from the T300 Sprint, with the Galfer brake lines.
Some what cleaned and reassembled the rear end with the Sprint 17" wheel for better tire choices.
Made the tank mount.

Im using TT600 clip on handle bars but I'm thinking they are too high having them installed on top of the triple tree, gong to look into flipping them and installing them under the triple tree for a lower look per the café look.

I have the headlight installed on the stock mount, it looks about right for height but looks like it sticks out too far, any opinions and input would help. I might mount the stock brackets on some 43mm clamps to set it back further.

Mounted up the rear brake master cylinder lower on the frame and shortened the push rod, was able to use a brake line from some TT600 calipers that I thought would work on the Trident fork, wrong mounting hole spacing.

Cleaned up and mounted the Alternator, water pump, and starter.

Tried to mount my Honda CB450 front sprocket which is a 520 pitch but it is too wide at the transmission spline, the rear 520 sprocket worked fine, this is more or less an experiment, If I end up using the bike a lot, I just might go back to the 530 set up.

I'm reusing the stock rear shock until I get a Hagon later on that is set up better for my fatness.
 

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Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
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Frame angle came out pretty good, now just have to finish up with the carbs and she will be ready to run.

I had read that the California version of the Tridents had less power based on leaner carb jetting and milder cams. Well I removed the valve cover and confirmed that this engine had the Triumph "BLUE" cams that came on the Tiger, Thunderbird and other Classic Triples.

I was fortunate to find a set of Green cams for 12 bucks on fleebay, installed them, checked the valves, and reassembled.

Now the available jetting info is a bit more relevant.

the seat is probably the next issue to resolve, I don't know what direction to take yet

Got the air filter box made, not the best color for sure but validated the assembly technique.

Got the new tires mounted too. Getting closer, and the weather is just starting to warm up too.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Minor update
carbs done, battery ordered, might get here by Friday and then to start on Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Got her running and road her around the block, faster than I though it would be. Jetting seams to be close, she makes all the right noises. Next reg and license and away we go.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Yah, didn't notice on fleebay that it was green, thought it was going to be black. I might redo the filter in black someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Yah hind sight is 20/20. I want to redesign the air box/filter anyway so I will make it black on the next attempt
 

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Having the foam that close to the carb mouth is restrictive. That's what airboxes are for! You ant each carb to "see" the entire airbox and the entire filter area.

Also, as soon as the filter foam starts to deteriorate, it'll get sucked into the intake.
 

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+ quote straight off the unifilter site: "UNI FOAM AIR FILTERS MUST BE OILED PROPERLY TO PREVENT HARMFUL DIRT PARTICLES FROM ENTERING YOUR ENGINE!"
+ pretty sure you are suppose to have a screen between the carbs and the filter material to prevent blowback issues :/ seemed to be an important consideration on my Montesa when they changed from a 2-stroke to the 4-stroke engine.

Should be no problem at all to locate a nice big airbox in that big open triangle space that you freed up behind the engine.
 
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